THE ART OF HYBRIDIZING
by Oscie B. Whatley,
Jr., Missouri
A series of seven articles taken from The
Daylily Journal
Spring 1988 Ð Fall 1989
Published by the American Hemerocallis
Society © 1990
Part I
INTRODUCTION
After a period of almost 30 years devoted to
growing and hybridizing daylilies, this may be the appropriate time to reflect
on its worth. I have few regrets over the time spent because most of the
frustrations were offset by some limited successes. As much as I have enjoyed
growing these plants, the pleasure of hybridizing them has been even greater.
I hope this series of articles will encourage
many more "just growers" to share the enjoyment of breeding
dayliliesÑto hybridize with a sense of orderly progress and to hold distinction
as an essential goal.
The opportunity to create new things is ever
on the increase and true improvements are much in demand. Rather than trying to
define "true improvements" let us just try for "uniqueness"
and allow time and testing to determine if there is a real advancement.
Of course there are some hazards in hybridizing.
It is not always popular with other family membersÑjust look at what happened
to Adam and Eve when they tried to improve the apple.
THE METHOD
Hybridizing can be divided into two methods:
Intuitive (art) and Genetic Science. Probably no one practices the pure form of
either method, but instead finds a comfortable proportion of each process. Creating
new things seems to come about regardless of where the emphasis lies. The two
methods never compete but instead complement and add variety to the building
blocks that make up our heritage of good parent material.
The majority of hybridizers today are stronger
on breeding as an art. At the same time, we try to utilize whatever genetic
science we can digest from our more formally educated friends. It would appear
to be a good arrangement with everyone finding a niche for himself. There is
good reason to believe that the two approaches will continue to support each
other.
The art form of hybridizing intrigues me the
most because I am a romanticist and to me the greatest enjoyment is derived
from this method. Therefore, these articles will deal mostly with an artistic
viewpoint and will apply scientific principles only in their simplest form.
The artistic approach is not without direction
any more than are scientific actions. Collecting data from observations and
allowing the subconscious to rationalize is not a new theory. Both methods
require knowledge, reasoning, and work. The basic difference for our purpose
here is that conscious decisions are "scientific" and subconscious
decisions may be termed artistic.
There will always be some frustration about
what to cross, what to select, and what to introduce; but intuition should
become more natural and come easier with use. It is like throwing the reins
over the horse's head and telling him to go home. Just be sure he has been
shown where home is.
Moving pollen from one flower to another does
not make a hybridizer any more than clicking a camera makes a photographer.
There are several facets to hybridizing that play important roles in leading up
to and following the actual cross. Being aware of and improving the skill in
these supporting activities will greatly increase the chances of hybridizing
success.
The first and most important of these
supporting activities is setting your goals. How many objectives? How do we
limit these objectives? How should we formulate them? These are some of the
questions we will deal with in Part I.
GOAL SETTING
In my earlier endeavors as a hybridizer I hung
onto every word of the old masters (Hall, Fay and others) in the hope that they
would reveal the secrets of their success in flower breeding. There was every
opportunity for me to observe and learn from these accomplished hybridizers;
yet it took many years to understand what they had outright told me.
I suppose magic, mystery, and gimmicks were
what I was looking for and this pursuit blinded me from seeing what was really
happening. When Orville Fay told me he pursued only one goal at a time I
thought, "How dumb! I'll pursue 10 objectives and pass him up." If I
had listened to his next piece of advice, "don't dilute your
efforts," I could have saved many wasted years.
The point is that one must start with a very
low number of objectives and give them strong, undeviating attention.
There are several ways to set good objectives.
The imagination is the workhorse of creativity; but it must be fed by
observation, research, and statistics. And it must be allowed time to develop.
Let us start with other plants and note
characteristics that would be desirable in daylilies but that do not yet exist.
It doesn't have to be totally nonexistent but rather perhaps just not in the
color or form or habit that you want.
Some examples might be the full form and
flatness of a hibiscus or the irradiance of a red gerbera. It is necessary to
reach beyond what is a practical objective and reluctantly compromise as one
works toward that goal. Give the imagination time to create the image. Several
images should be considered. Then eliminate the ones that do not have strong
appeal or uniqueness.
Another popular method of setting goals is the
process of combining existing characteristics. It probably will not yield many
outstanding unique results, but it is useful for improving the line.
Now to reduce the fantasy, follow up on this
method by visiting several hybridizers. Look for two things: (a) does it
already exist and (b) what varieties could contribute toward specific goals.
The value of visiting other hybridizers should
not be underestimated. It is by this pleasant, instructive activity that a
breeder develops future insight as to the state of the art, what the
competition is and is not, and what dominative characteristics from certain
parents suit his own objectives.
Exchange ideas, experiences, and methods used
in the pursuit of each goal.
Goal setting is a game of creating as many
objectives as you can and eliminating most of them. Study the chart shown below
for a brief example of how you might list and evaluate the goals.
Take note that nothing is eliminated because
it is too ridiculous or too difficult. Most good ideas start as ridiculous and
difficult. I remember when 2 ½Ó petals were considered wide. Where would
we be today if the concept of a 4Ó wide petal had been eliminated because it
was too ridiculous and difficult?
Competition. If a contestant wants
to win a race he should be the best in that race. A beginner would be wise to
find a unique, less competitive race and learn some techniques before tackling
the heavily populated treasure hunts.
Market. We will cover marketing more in a
later article but for now there are some important aspects to be considered in
setting goals.
Be aware of the market trends and cycles. Color,
height, sizes, color patterns, etc. will shift around every 5 or 6 years and
cycle back again. Usually a unique improvement will trigger a shift so why not
plan the super yellow introduction when another color is becoming commonplace.
Dealers are your best source of information about market trends but most of us
just do not ask until our super, unique plant is ready for marketing, and then
it is too late.
Uniqueness. Uniqueness is like
getting a foot in the door. It is a hard sell without it while a plant with
just one unique characteristic commands attention.
There have been cultivars with a unique
feature but with few other good characteristics that have soared to great
popularity. I always feel relieved when this type of introduction has run its
course. However, it does point out the value of uniqueness.
Our goal should be uniqueness with at least
good companion features; otherwise, it is doubtful that the unique introduction
will ever turn into a classic improvement.
GOAL SETTING
Idea |
Competition |
Market |
Unique? |
Remarks |
Large ruffled yellow |
heavy |
fair |
no |
too many |
Very early red |
low |
fair |
yes |
much needed |
Sun-resistant red |
med |
good |
yes |
improving |
Blue |
heavy |
good |
yes |
many names |
Green-throated red |
heavy |
fair |
no |
many exist |
SETTING LIMITS
Every self-satisfying hobby must have limiting
factors to keep runaway daydreams in check. These parameters are:
Available time. How much of our life
can we devote to this hobby without causing undue stress to our families or
interference with our jobs, civic duties and religious responsibilities?
Available space. It takes a minimum
space of approximately 4 feet by 6 feet to grow 100 seedlings. Keep the allocated
space and number of seedlings in balance.
Money. It takes this kind of stuff to
travel, to acquire parent material, to buy labor and to market your plants.
Some day the hobby may become self-supporting; but until then, how much can you
divert from other sources?
Advance limitation may seem to suppress our
creative abilities and however much we are aware of these parameters we still
rationalize the violations. Just do not become so compulsive that the money for
the kids' shoes is used for that new parent or grow too many seedlings and
start eyeing your neighbor's yard.
At this point the method to be used should be
clear, a few exotic goals imagined, and the limits you can live within defined
and understood.
In the next issue we will look at
"Collecting/Selecting and the Breeding Center."
Part II
COLLECTING & SELECTING
The new hybridizer must build a breeding
collection by standing on the shoulders of past and present hybridizers. There
isn't any other place to start unless a new species comes crawling out of the
woods. One has only to take note of the progress made in the past 20 years to
be convinced that reaching too far into the past would be like reinventing the
wheel. Although collecting the absolute latest may be difficult, it is possible
to collect some of the same plants our present hybridizers are still using.
There are many reasons for selecting a plant
to collect. A connoisseur may
select for the sake of pride in owning a rare variety. A speculator may select with an eye
toward good marketing or resale value.
A landscaper selects because certain characteristics will add to his
garden dŽcor. A hybridizer selects
to open the door to desired objectives and to make firsthand acquaintance with
state-of-the-art. Most of us are a mix of these types of collectors and one
must admire the person who can wear all hats. We should be aware of the various reasons we collect, but if
breeding material is the air, then one should avoid shifting priorities with
every captivating variety.
Selections may be found anywhereÑfrom the
latest introductions to castaways from other gardens. New introductions have
the advantage of more information on features and probably possess improved
characteristics. The disadvantages are limited testing and high cost. Veteran
varieties have the advantage of multi-regional performance. more accurate
parental history, and lower cost. The disadvantage is state-of-the-art lag.
It is indeed fortunate if a good hybridizer
will allow a sincere beginner to browse his (post selected) seedling patch for
parent materialÑ also, an added blessing if crosses can be recorded. Great care
must be taken by the beginner not to violate any agreements with the
established hybridizer.
Descriptions, consultations, pictures, and
observations are tools of the trade in selecting a parent. Getting to know the
plant is a matter of how many of these sources of information you use and how
intense the effort. Create subtle questions to ask a grower about an
interesting variety that relates to your goals. Never fail to inquire about
health and vigor.
Selecting a good parent is not ever having to
ask why you did it. A check list of (pre-collection) qualifications will make
you more aware of a parent's potential. Some examples are:
1)
Is
it vigorous (recovers quickly from transplanting and dividing)?
2)
Are
there signs of health problems (older leaves and roots can tell a lot but
asking around can reveal more)?
3)
Are
there wide variations in performance from region to region?
4)
Very
important to know are the dominant and recessive characteristics of a parent.
This can be determined only by knowing the cross and its resulting seedlings.
If a high percentage have features of the parent, the inherited trait is
considered dominant; if a high percentage loses a feature of the parent, this
is a recessive.
5)
Does
the potential parent have a strong line in its background or is It a freaky
outcross? You can count on strong line characteristics to reappear in your
seedling while freaky out-crosses have fragile genetic structure and the
special feature may be difficult to retain.
6)
What
characteristics are frequently or occasionally noted in its seedlings (good and
bad)?
7)
Is
It an easy seed maker and/or a viable pollen producer?
8)
Is
there a hint of the characteristic peculiar to your goal in the plant or,
better yet, in the parent line?
9)
Are
the chosen plants so closely related they will only perpetuate another hybridizer's
line?
We hear so much about certain cultivars being
good parents and wonder what it means. When this tag is put on a variety, it
should refer to an identification of dominant and recessive characteristics
displayed in its seedlings from various crosses. The introducer probably had
excellent results with certain line crosses and, for him, it was a good parent.
It's a mistake to assume the dominant/ recessive traits can be applied to all
crosses; in fact, it's highly unusual for it to work that way on many different
outcrosses. Don't pass over what is declared and verified as a good parent, but
the best parent you will ever discover will be your own line.
FILO (Falling in Love Obsession)
How easily we all are subject to FILO which
closes our minds to any further investigation. If you haven't determined wide
regional performance, habits, and background prior to selecting, then you
probably never will before collecting.
FILO is a lot of fun and our hobby would be
quite dull without it; however, it is a luxury that consumes much space, time,
and money. Keeping your objectives posted clearly in your mind while selecting
may help build a breeder collection based on facts rather than blind love.
Now with a new breeder collection in our
possession, where should it be located?
THE BREEDING CENTER
Any industrial engineer could easily improve
the operation of hybridizing. These engineers are trained to make a task more
efficient by reducing work. On the other hand, it seems hybridizers have a
passion for inefficiency by increasing the work. We think nothing of placing a
pod parent to the extreme north and the pollen parent to the extreme south.
Even if exercise was the motive, it would soon become a very limiting factor
after a few hundred crosses. Surely there are better ways to spend this
precious time than emulating a disturbed ant.
There are several benefits to a concentrated
breeding center. Reducing the steps (time) from one parent to the next would
appear reason enough for the center, but it also supports our decision-making
task. Having both parents in view while deciding a cross can add greatly to the
insight on a resulting seedling. It's a reminder to review both parents'
potentials just before mating. Also, the breeding center's concentration will
pay off well during seed harvest time because this chore requires daily
attention. It's a simple job to observe the crop from a single vantage point
without retracing hybridizing steps.
Parents need good culture after as well as
before crossing and it's an easy oversight to neglect a plant after making seed
pods. The post-bloom garden is probably hot and dry and it isn't the most
comfortable place to be at this time. Not that the pod plants need super
culture during this forty or more days of pregnancy, but normal care must not
be overlooked. Some pod parents will abort their seed pods in order to survive
if neglect persists. Caring for a smaller maternal area can save much hose
dragging.
Never allow the breeding center to become
static. A few parents will continue to be worth the space they occupy while
others will become obsolete. The beginning is usually composed of other
hybridizers' work, but eventually it should evolve into a major portion of your
plants. Occasionally, there will be reasons to bring other hybridizers'
varieties back into the breeding center in order to outcross and start new
objectives. The breeding center is for the elite parent, and only those plants
living up to your standards should be allowed that space.
Parents that are no longer useful should be
removed and the locations reconditioned for a new parent. Be patient in finding
the right plants for replacing those that you have evicted. That empty space
doesn't demand urgent replacement as if it were a missing front tooth.
Now that we have good parent material and are
situated in a breeding center, we will discuss "Building a Line" and
"Making Seed" next.
Part III
BUILDING A LINE
One of the most ambitious steps for a new
hybridizer is transforming a dream into a powerhouse of potential parents. This
powerhouse is known as a breeding line and is composed of parent plants that
include a composite of desirable features which are closely related through
incrossing.
The majority of us are habitual outcrossers and never build a
line because we are looking for instant success. Lightning may strike habitual
outcrossers occasionally but the classic improvements are rare. It should be
obvious which hybridizers have breeding lines without identifying them. Ever
notice what happens when a strong line is taken over by another hybridizer? If
one continues to build and enrich that line, then the new breeder probably will
achieve greater results than the predecessor. It may appear that the successor
was a better hybridizer than the originator of the line, while in fact it may
be just a case of keeping the machinery oiled.
There are some problems in starting to build a
line:
¥ Confidence
may waver over whether this is the best approach to achieve a specific
objective.
¥ Patience
will be required to work through many generations of seedlings.
¥ Line
contamination will result if we are lured into outcrossing with every pretty
flower we see.
Actually, the building of a line starts when
the objective is chosen and probably will continue to improve even after that
objective is accomplished. There will be times when you will want to throw down
the hoe and walk away from a line, but the only good reason for aborting is that
the objective has been dropped. Assuming all the right ingredients have been
included, you must explore all avenues before calling it quits.
There are many hybridizers who have built good
lines and never knew anything about genetics. Probably they had a natural touch
for observing and reasoning and practiced some genetic rules unknowingly.
Assuming all of us are not so gifted, it might be well to acquaint ourselves
with some basic genetics that can influence our hybridizing destiny.
The subject of genetics seems to turn off more
would be hybridizers than any other facet of breeding. Consequently, many
ignore the subject and trust to luck or intuition or bee crosses. Genetics can
serve hybridizers even though they do not understand how it works. It's like driving
a car and not being a mechanical engineer.
Genetics affects the hybridizer's work and it
cannot be ignored (unless one has that special gift). The influence will always
be there whether we can predict the outcome or not. My experience in communicating
other technical subjects has taught me that complete abstinence or complete
involvement is too extreme for the ambitious amateur. A little shove across the
genetic threshold is sufficient for now. I hope the more learned people on this
subject can appreciate this oversimplified approach as a way of opening doors,
encouraging experimentations, and challenging the amateur to seek better
methods for learning more on this subject. In this case, it is doubtful that a
little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Without trying to learn the genetic theories
or names, let's take a short cut to performing some experiments in various
types of crosses. This doesn't eliminate the need to know basic genetics, for
doing so will be the only way to develop better insight into complex problems.
Perhaps after experimenting with some sibling and backcrosses you will want to
learn more.
Here we will give a brief description of the
types of crosses and the purpose for making them. The parents in these
experiments are either unrelated or related as siblings or immediate parents.
However, grandparents, uncles, cousins, etc. could also be involved but with
lesser effect.
Outcross: This is a cross with any other
variety outside its own line or at least that is distantly related. Purpose: to bring desirable
characteristics into a line at the risk of bringing in unwanted features. It is
also used to bring new vigor and fertility in a degenerating line.
Sibling cross: Crossing of the first sister
seedlings after an out-cross. Purpose: to exhibit hidden traits that otherwise
remain inconspicuous when outcrossed. Continuing to cross siblings of the third
generation or more will reduce the visible variations.
Backcross: Results from a cross of a variety
back to either of its parents. Purpose: this can decrease some characteristic
variations in the line by increasing the odds of recessive material from both
parents. These backcrosses can be repeated several times back to the original
parent and variations will decrease accordingly. By selecting the seedling
parent with desirable features (and not selecting the bad) your backcrosses
will perpetuate the good and eliminate the bad.
Self crossing is similar to sibling crossing
except it is suspect of rapid line deterioration. Just for the humor of it, I
believe nature put the pollen behind the stigma so fewer selfs would be made,
giving the hybridizer the first opportunity to cross.
With these experimental tools at our disposal,
we can examine the probability of some first and second-generation crosses.
(See below.) The Punnett's square or checkerboard is a method used for
illustrating the possible combinations that sibling crossing can generate. This
is a very simple two-character distribution and, as you know, there are many
more per plant. It does give you an idea of how characteristics can combine
themselves; however, the possible combinations increase rapidly with a few more
characters. The ratio was worked out by Mendel and he proved it with several
hundred crosses. (It didn't get much attention at the time.) He is called the
father of genetics now but he was only an amateur then. These checkerboards can
give you some idea about combination ratio and how recessive characters are
revealed. Don't expect exactness because there have been too many different
characteristics plowed into the plants since we started hybridizing species.
Any loss of "exactness"Ñi.e., deviation from Mendelian ratiosÑarises
from looking at multiple gene characters.
One must realize genetics makes the plans and
our environment does the building. If either one faults they both go down the
drain. It is very difficult to determine which is causing the plant to do what
it does, especially with regard to habits. Breeding controls genetic variation
and culture controls environmental variation. Moving selections to different
environments is one testing method for isolating the causes of some plant
performances.
Selecting your seedlings for either a line
parent or introduction possibility is not a once-and-done thing. It takes many
observations to get that special feeling and the small hybridizer has some advantages
here. Every seedling patch is filled with variations for one reason or another.
Most are worthless and degrading, gaining little or no attention. However, once
in a while something unique and worthwhile makes its debut. Hopefully the good
ones are located and moved for more study. Sounds easy, but put yourself in a
field of 100,000 seedlings and see how numb your observations become.
It wasn't intended to attack all outcrossing
as a degrading method, but it is over-used by most of us. The same problem
would exist with sib and backcrosses if they were done in excess.
Conclusion: Is line breeding a practical
working method and worth the effort? For the amateur who has set unique
objectives, I feel it is the shortest and most controllable approach. Hopefully
this simple introduction to genetics might cause you to pull back the pollen
from a promiscuous outcross someday, and ask, "Where am I going?"
Now with a purpose and method for building a
line, we will look at making some seeds.
MAKING SEED
The making of seed is a necessary production
for supporting your crosses. This may range from nuisance pods to the
impossible cross. There is not much value in writing about either one of those
problems so we will concentrate on the just difficult ones.
There are many factors affecting seed
production; some we are aware of while many others we know very little about.
I realize my Midwest problems and solutions
are not applicable everywhere but much of our weather and growing conditions
are experienced in many regions.
The genetic problems:
Sterility is becoming more common in pod parents
than we would care to admit. It seems some plants refuse to set seed regardless
of the location, weather, and culture. The only obvious sign (outside of no
pods) is a kink in the style which is not always there. After trying many
varieties of fertile pollen it may be necessary to write off a pod parent.
Sterility in pollen is more obvious, especially if it is white and not powdery.
I have never made a cross with such pollen. The fooler is when pods are set and
the seeds fail to germinate, probably because no embryo exists. All the above
are probably genetic and can be observed without magnification. Surely there
are many other reasons too complicated for the layman to comprehend, and there
is not much we could do about it if we did.
The environmental problems:
Weather plays a very important role because of
rain, temperature, humidity, wind, etc. Although we can't change the weather
(outside of a greenhouse), we can select areas where there is a little
buffering. Some shade does a lot for reducing temperature and watering increases
the humidity during evaporation. When rain is a problem and you still insist on
hybridizing you can save pollen from previous blooms and protect the stigma after
pollinating.
Culture: If it gets too bad, it may affect
seed production, but I have never seen a daylily pod suffer from good culture.
Wind may not be so much of a problem but I still
don't like to pollinate a wiggly flower.
Insects: Several types of bees collect pollen
for their own use and robbing you of a cross doesn't bother them a bit. The
best way to counter this is collect the pollen anthers the previous day or be
an early riser. Also, some light-weight screening material can be used.
Temperature: Probably all varieties
have a shut down temperature for the pod parent. I am not sure of the low side
but the high side seems to be around 90 degrees F for tetraploids and a little
higher for diploids with some variation for each variety. I believe pollen has
a higher range but haven't tested it.
Humidity (or perhaps its cooling effects) must
affect pollination because I have noted good sets from crossing shortly after a
long morning rain.
Timing: There are some good reasons for
crossing immediately after the stigma flowers because it seems more receptive
at that time. However, I have not had this advantage and have crossed prior to
its flowering for many years with fair success.
Pollen storage: For some time I have
practiced storing pollen in gel capsules, marking with a felt tip pen, and
placing them in a jar with a dehydrating gel. These jars are kept in the
refrigerator but should be warmed up before opening to prevent condensation on
the capsules. I think fresh pollen is the best since storing will reduce
viability. If you can't use fresh, then store but replenish your supply
frequently.
Persistency: Some difficult parents
have come around after many tries. There is always the chance that all the
things that may prevent a cross will change and that rare opportunity will
present itself for only a brief period. You must be there with the pollen.
Microscopic examination: I have nothing to
offer for the pod parent but pollen can be revealing on a few points.
Pollen grains placed on a slide with a drop of
water under a cover glass are easiest to view. (10X is very suitable.) If the
grains are opaque, swollen (due to the water) and football shaped we have a
good start.
The quantity of good grains relative to the
trash around them must be considered because too much trash is not good. (Trash
is broken pollen grains.) In fact, I have seen cases of all trash and then I
knew why pollination was impossible.
If a light is used under the slide it will
generate heat. This warms the water and causes some grains to rupture and exude
a liquid-like substance. This liquidÑnot the grain shellsÑis actually what goes
down the style. When these ruptures are not noted I suspect inviable pollen.
The main reason for examining pollen grains is
to determine if there is a good reason to concentrate your efforts, or let it
go as bad stuff.
There is very little reason to protect an
early cross that has its stigma loaded over with a cake of pollen. (Rain is an
exception.)
After 14 or so days you can smile a little if
the pod is still holding but don't count your seedlings yet. It takes
approximately 42 days for the average pod to mature and .I remove them when
they crack from light pressure. These pods are shelled within a few hours into
small ziplock plastic bags and stored in the refrigerator for at least two
weeks. Some will rot if not mature but most will remain plump, and be ready for
germination.
Tagging: When crosses are made I place a
snap-on plastic tag around the neck of the flower with the pollen parent name
or number. If a pod is set, I add the pod parent number when I harvest the pod.
These tags are the right size to fit into the plastic bags and can be used as
markers until a more convenient time to replace them.
Be sure and mark your containers for storing
pollen and seeds, or you might be surprised on refrigerator-cleanout day.
Now with good quantities of quality seed we
will next take up "cultivating seedlings" and "selecting our
best."
Part IV
Seedling Culture
The object is to turn the little black ball
(seed) into a flowering plant with a minimum of time and labor expended. There
may be as many methods of seed culture as there are hybridizers, most of which
are quite successful.
The following method is a workable one for the
Midwest and if I were to relocate to another region I would beg the local
hybridizers for advice. However, it is possible that some of the techniques
mentioned below can be successfully mixed with other methods.
If the seeds are stored as directed in the
previous article, they should be plump and their dormancy broken after a
minimum of three weeks at around 35 degrees. Do not subject seeds to, any
lengthy drying or warmth until ready for planting.
The time for planting is about ten to twelve
weeks before a hard freeze (20 degrees or less). The majority of the seed will
germinate in two weeks and actively grow until forced into a dormant condition
by the cold. (Dormancy in seedlings is usually brought on by cold, not shorter
days.) The seedlings should reach about 6" before mid-December here in the
Midwest.
This method requires a cold frame with fixed
ventilation and subdued light, located in a protected spot from winter winds.
(See sketch)
SEED SPACING: Use a board just short of the
width of the cold frame to make depressions for a row. Space seeds about 1/2 to
1" apart in each row and mark the beginning of each cross with a plastic
marker. (Note: the snap-on plastic cross tag can be used as a temporary marker
until a more suitable one can be substituted.) The permanent markers are moved
to the seedling patch along with the plants (crossed) in the spring. The cold
frame seed rows can be as close as 2" apart using the medium removed from
one row to cover the last one planted.
With this spacing of seeds in the cold frame,
we can place about 100 seeds per square foot or about 1500 per frame (3 foot by
6 foot size).
It is important to have the frame well
ventilated, so don't seal the ends of the corrugated plastic. Keep the medium
moist but not soggy until germination. Be very careful to not allow it to dry
out for the first month of germination and seedling growth (check every day).
FERTILIZING: Only mild fertilizers should be
used and preferably should be applied after germination. A soluble type such as
9-45-6 has worked best for us.
When the plants go dormant there is little to
do except check occasionally to be sure the medium remains slightly moist (even
a dormant plant must not dry out). As spring approaches, new growth will signal
that watering should be increased and some light applications of fertilizer
begun.
Around four to six weeks after new growth has
started and outside low temperatures are above 30 degrees, you can consider
lining out plants.
The preparation of seedling beds is best done
in the fall. The Dutch method of 4' wide beds is preferred here; but where
space and equipment are available, normal row planting is quite acceptable. The
degree of preparation depends upon your particular soil conditions. If you are
fortunate enough to have good soil, there is little to do except till and mound
up about 6" and wait for spring. Those less fortunate must add the
materials necessary to make a bed into a fairly good nursery where seedlings
can be nurtured for a season and a half.
Access to water is essential in most areas to
augment the rainfall when it is insufficient for maximum growth.
Weeds cannot be tolerated and periodical
elimination must be practiced. If chemical control is considered, experiment on
test plots for one season before going whole-hog.
Spacing of seedlings is usually 4" within
the rows and the rows themselves are spaced 5" apart. With this spacing we
should get around 9 or 10 seedlings per square foot. If you should think the
closeness of this spacing will hinder a plant in its bloom, just think how
crowded a clump will be later.
Continuous and uniform culture cannot be
overemphasized during the first year. One day of plant stress will necessitate
weeks of recovery time.
Most hybridizers do not protect seedlings with
a winter mulch. The theory is that tender plants will eliminate themselves,
thereby assuring survival of the fittest. However, the tender plants may not be
killed outright. Instead the cold may prevent blooming or cause defective flowers,
which prompts the hybridizer to eliminate the affected plants anyway.
The quantity of plants to bloom in the
following year could be a surprise. It is often assumed that all seedlings will
bloom the second year and perhaps with super-culture it is within the realm of
possibility. However, average to good culture will yield only about 50% bloom
for that period, and I prefer to use average culture for elimination purposes because
this comes closer to simulating conditions in the majority of gardens. If a
plant doesn't bloom the second season it may be the result of culture
technique; but if it is genetically restricted, then why promote a
temperamental cultivar? You may grow your seedlings another year to observe
what didn't bloom in the second year. However, unless cultural practices have
been decidedly lax, the chances of something worthwhile showing up are slim.
A lot of labor goes into the growing of
seedlings and only the anticipation of bloom drives us on. Apparently this
drive is quite formidable and with some, an obsession. If the labor causes
undue stress on you and your loved ones, there is no sin in trash-canning some
less desirable crosses. All this work will seem worthwhile when one special
seedling unfolds its segments and your dreams become reality.
Now with seedlings in bloom we face the task
of selecting the ones for future parents and possible introduction. In the next
issue we will consider "Choosing our Best."
Part V
Choosing Your Best
A dear departed friend of daylily lovers was
Jim McKinney. He was frequently asked for his opinion on a flowering seedling
while visiting a fellow hybridizer's garden. With the skill of a diplomat and
in his easy southern drawl, he might reply, "I believe it's the best in
your garden today." Jim may have seemed slyly noncommittal, but I think he
was sending a message that the best in your garden today doesn't necessarily
constitute introductive material.
That unique selection that stirred your heart
may be short lived if it cannot adapt to other gardens and give a consistent
performance. "Choosing your best" of obvious features is easy compared
to choosing the best of plant habits. Somehow we are so wrapped up in the
obvious finger and toe characteristics that habits are taken for granted. Yet
the habits will determine whether that beautiful form, color, ruffling, etc.,
will show frequently and in many gardens.
No introduction will give equal performances
in all regions. You can hope only for an acceptable show in the majority of
situations and even this is rare. Some established hybridizers have set
objectives to widen
the range of places their introductions
perform well. Their efforts are admirable because it isn't easy to disrupt a
good line by outcrossing to cultivars that may bring as many unwanted features
as they do desired ones. Just extending a tender evergreen line to include
dormant hardy features can be a horrendous undertaking. If the new hybridizer
builds his lines with multi-regional performance as standard equipment, he
should never have to hear,
"I love your things but they don't do
well for me."
Only obvious unique features can send an
introduction down the road toward success, but we should be sure its habits are
the right vehicle to carry it all the way.
Obvious good features have been well-defined
in the literature and should require no reinforcement here. On the other hand, characteristics
pertaining to habit are not so well defined, though their impact may be even
greater. Two of the most important such characteristics are consistency and
adaptability.
Consistency: The plant's ability
to perform repetitively, displaying its obvious features within acceptable
limits. Example - a flower size not varying more than 20%.
Adaptability: The plant's ability
to perform in other gardens (especially other regions) in a manner that does not
belie the introducer's declarations.
As previously mentioned, a plant's performance
is controlled by the combination of its heredity and environment. We tend to
blame the environment for any performance that falls short of the one ideal
show. However, after observing certain varieties over several years (regardless
of where they are located) it is easy to distinguish the plants that struggle
and the ones that compete with the weeds. It seems logical to conclude that
genetics controls adaptability and culture is only a crutch for the varieties
that adapt poorly.
Getting to know your selections can come only
from watching and comparing their performances against (a) standards set by our
Society (b) previous introductions, and (c) your own discreet objectives.
Learning about your selections should be done systematically so as not to
overlook important features and habits.
There are three levels of observation and
evaluation of a new varietal selection.
1) The
first encounter of a seedling whereby unique qualities are noted. This level
may consist of simply counting the obvious desired features and seeing if it
has special appeal.
2) Several
follow-up encounters to determine whether the first-noted qualities are
consistent within a single environment. While viewing over a series of bloom
periods, you will be able to test the plant's "staying appeal."
3) Multi-regional
encounters to determine whether the qualities are consistent when exposed to
various environments. This involves placing one or more plants of the seedling
in gardens of different regions for observing the plant's performance under
different growing conditions.
Why not give the plant a star when it is
accepted at each level before proceeding to the evaluation? By the time your
plant has three stars it should have received some attention without your
solicitations.
The first two evaluations can be done pretty
much on your own, but the third one requires help outside your garden, that is,
another region. Accurate evaluation depends on the candidness of those who feed
back the data. Ask for a performance report on specific characteristics (not
the general, "What do you think?")
It's best to keep plants under number on this
third level evaluation because names have their side effects. There is no way
to get a factual report on a poor performer when the variety has been named after
the hybridizer's granddaughter. The best arrangement is to have a reciprocal
agreement with a hybridizing friend where each of you will have the opportunity
to factually evaluate the other's creations and avoid flattery.
While your plants are being evaluated you must
try to remain indifferent and tell your selection it is only one rejection away
from the compost. Set aside FILO (Falling In Love Obsession) until the tests
are complete. Postpone naming until you feel the plant is worthy of a name.
Naming before the test is like having children to save a marriage.
Like other hybridizers, I have wondered many
times if I composted when I should have introduced and introduced when I should
have composted. Absolute certainty will never exist, but through testing and
evaluation we can come much closer to forecasting the potential of a proposed
introduction.
An individual's success with testing and
evaluation depends upon his ability to find the optimum in terms of degree. Too
little testing is very common today, with the decision to introduce based on
little more than a few local observations. Too much testing/evaluation and your
variety could be superseded by a similar variety. Also, caring for larger numbers
of varieties under test could become a heavy chore.
"Choosing your best" starts with
selection of unique qualities and the verification of habits that will show
these qualities wherever you choose.
With the variety now certified with three
stars, in the next issue we will take up our final article Ñ"Naming and
Marketing."
Part VI
"A good name is
better than precious ointment."
ÑEcclesiastes
7:1
Naming
Of all the facets of hybridizing, naming seems
to have been exploited to the greatest extent. If we had covered all the
avenues of breeding with such thoroughness, there would be little left to
accomplish. Such fervor to stake a name claim hasn't been equaled since the
Oklahoma land rush. Consequently many a good name has been gobbled up forever
by cultivars soon forgotten.
Names play an important part in promotion and
good names are rarer than good cultivars. If we are sloppy in choosing names,
our super seedling will have to work doubly hard to make up the difference. On
the other hand, good names have been known to "carry" poor cultivars
for years.
A good name does not have a finite definition.
However, one can quickly sense the pluses and minuses after a little analyzing.
First, let us identify the various types of
names and note some of their effects.
FITTING SOURCES
Descriptive names: This is the most
popular and effective type in use. The public will react more quickly and
positively to descriptive names than any other type. Unfortunately, they are also
the most exploited.
People's names: We use these names
on daylily varieties to honor some worthy individual. Don't depend on the
popularity of the person to carry the variety to success and do consider the
name for "sound appeal." Not all handles ring bells.
Geographical names: These names must not
have a bad connotation regardless of their sonority. Popular names in the news
are very tempting but one must avoid places with political instability.
Prefixed names: The first word
usually indicates the geographic origin or the breeder. This method gives wide
access to many already used names, but selecting the prefix should be done with
care. Otherwise, it may sound peculiar in conjunction with other names.
Mythical and fantasy names: Such words have no
physical reality but are used in literature. These words go down well since
they have a built-in charm and fascination.
Coined names: Some fine words come
from creating or combining your own. Follow the rules for effect and limit this
type to a small number. It's a good idea to have poetic or romantic reasons for
coining names.
FROM NOTIONS TO NAMES
The psychological effects of a name can range
from good to bad in the realm of public reaction. These effects will apply to
all the above type names; however, non-descript ones should be given the most
scrutiny. Subject your names to stringent analysis before making that final
move. Consider the following:
Connotation: Any name will have
subconscious meanings that are perceived from association. The cause of these
underlying meanings may have root in misunderstandings or exploitation of
political and social events (especially true of people and places).
Connotations are somewhat intangible, inconsistent, and will not make the
dictionary until years later. The most difficult problem in dealing with word
connotations is their inconsistency due to people's varied experiences. You
will have to give weight to the most popular acceptance. Example:
"Snow," usually suggests white and beauty but to some it may mean
cold and bleak.
As difficult as connotations are to predict
with a name, they are nonetheless very real and will affect your product.
Nostalgia: This is a specialized building block
of connotation, but reaches far back in our history for the experience. Childhood
memories that bring about good feelings can be made into excellent names.
Controlled connotation: It would be very
difficult to create a connotation for a word; instead, we must be astute to
what fantasized meanings attach themselves to words. Once these meanings are
understood, evaluated for positive feelings and strength, we can apply the word
(name) to our favorite object. Example: The word, "Mustang", was
selected so that owners of these cars would think of their vehicles as wild,
fast, powerful, and sleek (a positive feeling). On the other hand, you might
name a miniature daylily "Termite" Ñ a good sounder Ñ but wouldn't
this name also suggest destruction, costly repair, and menace to our home (a
negative feeling)?
Always ask yourself and others what
connotation generally accompanies the selected word. Make it work for you and
avoid the ones that are even faintly suspect.
HARD ROCK OR MUSIC
The sound of names can be as pleasant as any
well loved music or as unpleasant as falling pots and pans. There are a few
rules that are known to produce good sounding names but don't limit yourself to
just these examples. Study commercial advertisements (the real pros) and note
their methods.
Rhythm: If we follow the reasoning of song
writers who find it easier to write lyrics in romance languages, we would tend
to select names with the words and syllables that usually end in vowels. This
makes a smooth transition from one sound to the next and the overall effect is
rhythmic. This is what makes the words of a song easier to remember than a
speech and names need this quality. Examples: Casaba, Omega, Piano.
Rhyme: Double names that rhyme are attention
getters and have pleasing sounds or alliteration. Examples: Seven Eleven, Super
Duper, Fat Cat.
Hard consonants: There are double
names in commerce today with beginning sounds that are hard and strong. No
doubt they are successful, but still a little harsh when applied to objects of
beauty. Examples: Big Mac, Red Roof, Gem Stone.
These are rules and examples for developing a
publicly acceptable name and they should not conflict with American
Hemerocallis rules for naming. You must comply with the Society's rules or
otherwise chaos would eventually destroy our system. Refer to the recent published
rules in Journal Vol. 43 No. 3, Fall 1988. It behooves all hybridizers
registering daylilies to review the rules frequently.
Computerized search has greatly expedited our
registrar's task in preventing duplication, etc, but needless correspondence
could be avoided if the hybridizer would research the Check List prior to application.
It may be an overstatement to suggest we are
testing a name but it does need scrutinizing for appeal, checking for
availability by AHS rules, and just trying on for size.
Jot down names as they come to mind and
separate the wheat from the chaff later. When you try for a match with a
variety, just look at the flower (or picture) and ask if it really looks like a
so-and-so. In time, names grow on varieties and the first look-see seldom jibes
with the final feeling.
The art of naming can be as self-satisfying as
the other facets of hybridizing. Much like a unique variety, a super name is
something to behold.
Now that the new name has survived. the
pre-introduction test and been married to a fine variety, you must prepare the
couple for the cruel world by "promotion and marketing" (our final
article of this series).
Part VII - Final
in a Series
PROMOTION AND MARKETING
Prior to this phase of hybridizing, the new
breeder's work has been his own private business. He hasn't asked anyone to
share his good fortune in developing new cultivars, but when he promotes and
markets a new introduction, he is in effect telling the public that he is
willing to share his accomplishments at a price. He is putting his credibility
on the line for being able to breed, select, and communicate the quality of his
cultivar. Now the new introduction is out of his control, and it must stand on
its own. Nevertheless, the cultivar's performance will continue to reflect more
on the introducer than on the grower.
In the early history of marketing daylilies,
we allowed the cultivar to do its own promotion. The spread of a good daylily
resulted mostly from first hand observation rather than the "take my word
for it" approach.
We have moved into a different world now where
promotion through advertisement is as acceptable in daylilies as it is with
soap. Other types of promotion have also become more sophisticated as our
Society has expanded. The bulk of daylily sales today are based on someone
else's word for the plant's quality. In spite of what most of us wish, we
actually observe only a few choices before buying.
The majority of us are buyers as well as
sellers, so we surely can take an empathic approach in putting together a
selling promotion that carries the integrity we would accept as a buyer.
It seems promotion and marketing are very much
integrated, and we will not try to separate them here. However, one can sense
that the introduction of the new plant seems more promotional, and the
continued selling of it leans more toward marketing.
With an unlimited budget, it takes very little
ability to promote and market a new introduction, but most of us feel the need
to balance our budget after some initial investment. Also, continuous lavish
promotion, in addition to being a drain on the budget, could cause suspicion
that your cultivars cannot carry their own weight.
After pouring time and money into developing a
nice introduction, the new hybridizer may be reluctant to invest even more.
Unfortunately, regardless of how good the novice may be, the world will not beat
a path to his/her garden unless there is initial promotion. The obstacles in
getting that first attention will not be overcome by hybridizing ability, but
instead "the new kid on the block" must learn and use the power of
promotion.
Many good hybridizers stop right at this point
and deprive the world of their creations. They may feel that they cannot
compete with the high rollers who are out there promoting mediocrity. All I can
advise is that if you think you have the right stuff, jump into the promotional
arena, and have faith that quality will prevail.
The new hybridizer can choose a variety of
promotional methods ranging from the low budget type such as guest plants to
the most expensive color catalogues. Let's examine some of the methods and
comment on the worth of each one.
PROMOTIONAL METHODS
¥ GUEST
PLANTS.
This is the most economical method and fits the needs of buyers who must see a
cultivar in action. It also places the new introduction on the public's path
such as on national and regional tours. Display and popular gardens are also
good choices, but prearrangements should always be made with the grower before
sending the plants. Don't be embarrassed to ask someone to host your plants
because there are many good growers who are willing and able to host a few good
cultivars.
¥ COLOR
SLIDES.
If you are a good photographer, put this talent to work as a promotional tool.
If you are not a good photographer, consider educating yourself on the subject
and buying one of the new automatic cameras that bypasses the need for much
skill. Using quality pictures of quality flowers is the only way slides can
promote your plant.
Besides a legible name, take time to add the seedling number, size, and perhaps
the parents to the slide. This will add interest for the viewer. Take advantage
of the programs offered by our Society at conventions, contests, libraries,
etc., to display your creations. Also, ask some of your friends to view them
and perhaps show them in local slide programs.
A word of caution
about slides:
Most slides represent one ideal flower of a cultivar. They do not represent
habits such as consistent performance within the boundaries of average culture
and weather conditions. If the cultivar being shown is a good performer, say
so; if not, do not allow a single good flower picture to misrepresent its
overall performance.
¥ ARTICLES. Getting the name of
your introduction in print (other than in purchased space) is a high-impact
promotional advantage. We all love to read about new developments for creating
our want lists. The names of worthy cultivars may eventually find their way
into such printings as tour reports, Popularity Polls, Awards & Honors,
show winners, and articles Ñ if you are patient. If patience isn't your virtue,
then put your super variety on the stage and let it perform for all to see.
Where and how you stage your cultivars is within your right to promote, but if
you are encouraging articles, you should stop short of crossing the sensitive
line between useful information and free advertisement.
Normally, editors can sort
out interesting and beneficial material for all the members from that of special
interest. However, no article, whether informative or honorary, can be totally
free of promotion if names and pictures are used. Many hybridizers compensate
for this by paying the cost of color separations (expensive, but a good deal
for all).
¥ SHOWS. This type of promotion
brings more attention to the new growers than to the cultivars. However,
winning accredited show events is one way to get your cultivar's name in the Journal.
¥ AWARDS. Receiving an award
does bring attention, and regardless of the pros and cons of the system, this
is a promotional effect worth-striving for. You can be justly proud of any
award that was won solely on the merits of your cultivar.
TO MARKET, TO MARKET
By now, if the promotional methods have had
their effect on demand, we are ready to make our marketing pitch. Our most
common system of marketing is by direct solicitation (hybridizer or dealer to
the customer). This serves as more than just an opportunity to sell or buy,
since it is a communication link within our Society for all to appreciate the
state of the art.
It would be wise for the new hybridizer to
start with a less expensive newsletter ad and single price list, then work up
to more sophistication as he becomes established. The Daylily Journal offers the widest
readership in the field, although ads are usually more costly than newsletter
ads. Good color catalogues and ads are very effective but also expensive, and
the cost should be weighed carefully before taking the plunge.
In introducing new cultivars, the hybridizer
can elect to do it either on his own or affiliate with an established grower.
If he joins a grower for this purpose, a written agreement will avoid future
conflicts and possibly save an existing friendship. If he tries it alone, then he
must create the necessary descriptions and prices for his advertisement.
¥ DESCRIPTIONS. Describing your baby
is an essential part in selling what you believe to be a contribution. An accurate
description coupled with a sharp color picture is the ultimate persuasion. It
could have more impact than the real thing since repeated viewing is more
convenient. Unfortunately, most of us cannot go this far with each of our
introductions, and we must compromise with descriptions plus black and white
pictures or solely with descriptions.
Photographic equipment
and printing techniques improve every year, but pictures alone would be
inadequate for communicating a complete understanding of the introduction. The
statistics, habits, and range of performance are difficult or impossible to
convey with a picture. Statistics are cold facts (size, height, season, color
and foliage habit) while plant habits and performance are like topping on a
dessert; they are related more from feelings than from measured data.
Putting together the
statistics is the easiest part, but the data should be gathered from established
plants receiving ordinary culture, and, if possible, taken from more than just
a local garden.
Most narratives are
more "flowery" than the actual object of description, and a few are
as cold as specifications for a jail house. There is no doubt that
enthusiastic, colorful descriptions are most effective; but refrain from
stretching the truth, using false standards, and bombarding the reader with
superlatives. Good characteristics should be emphasized, average ones may or
may not be mentioned, and bad ones should have already aborted the
introduction.
¥ PRICING. There has been so
much controversy about today's introductory prices that it must be confusing
for the new hybridizer as to what is an appropriate price for him while at the
same time a fair one to the customer. It is unfortunate that there is not a
simple formula to establish a price, but if we study and become aware of some
factors that affect prices, perhaps our intuition will not forsake us.
Take note and compare
the quality of your own introduction with other recent introductions that seem
successful. (Success in marketing is indicated by demand and rising (or
holding) prices.)
After you have set a
few prices, you can place them in three categories which will help in
determining future pricing.
ÑUnderpriced. A complete and rapid
sell-out followed by continued demand.
ÑAdequately priced. Near sellout over
several seasons while keeping a fixed or slightly reduced price.
ÑOverpriced. Your stock propagation
runs away from the sales, and your competitors are undercutting your price even
though they have very little stock.
You must speculate on
factors such as:
(a) Supply. This is the quantity
available at time of introduction and the rate and effect of propagation.
(b) Demand. Consider popularity
and exposure. Has the cultivar created favorable comments and inquiries?
(c) Comparison. As previously mentioned,
your pricing should keep within the bounds of that for similar material.
(d) Quality
Inference.
High prices get attention and suggest better quality. If high pricing becomes
habitual, the hybridizer is putting his selecting credibility on the line. On
the other hand, a low price carries the stigma of less than average quality.
(If that is a fact, perhaps it should not have been selected for introduction.)
To conclude "Promotion and
Marketing," we should recall how we respond as a buyer, be sincere and honest
when we ask someone to "take our word for it," and never trust a
critic carrying a shovel.
CONCLUSION
"The Art of Hybridizing"...
It has been fun and enlightening to write this
series of articles. I certainly became more aware of not just what I was
experiencing but also what other hybridizers were doing. I had much help from
other breeders, and some did not even suspect they were helping.
There were a few resolutions that I made at
the outset of writing these articles which I hope were fulfilled to some
extent.
(a) Target
the new hybridizers, for they are our future and have the right to past
experiences.
(b) Do
not mention specific cultivars or living hybridizers. The intent is to promote
hybridizing, not introductions.
(c) Discuss
all the facets of hybridizing, even touching on some esoteric and forbidden
subjects for the amateur.
(d) Never
be too serious about a fun project.
(e) Avoid
direct criticism (the most difficult resolution of all for a critic like me).
There remain many untold experiences of other
seasoned hybridizers that can be of great value to the novice. More important
than the inheritance of good cultivars, our successors need the building blocks
of methods. One can only wonder what the violins of today would be like if
Antonio Stradivari had determined to reveal how he created that wonderful
instrument, the Stradivarius.
Good Luck!
Oscie
B. Whatley, Jr. (1923-2005) was an engineer by profession, employed by
McDonnell Douglas Corp. in St. Louis, Missouri. He was born in Texas where his
Aunt Mary Stevens inspired him with a love of gardening. daylilies, and
hybridizing. He was a recipient of the Bertrand Farr hybridizing award.